Blog Detail
- The Silk Route by Private Train - Including Shanghai Extension
- Tour of The Silk Road Tour By Private Train
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March 16
Aboard the Golden Eagle Trans Siberian ExpressWe are on our way, aboard the private train.
Yesterday, after breakfast, we set off in 2 coaches, each with a Russian guide, for sightseeing in Moscow. First stop was the Kremlin where we visited the Armoury, a museum containing an amazing collection of clothing of the Czars and religious leaders, dating back to 14th century, all of which were highly decorated with jewels and gold, some with thousands of tiny pearls. There was also fabulous jewellery, items in gold, silver and and jewels, carriages, and all kinds of old and decorated objects.
Then on to Cathedral Square where we were treated to unaccompanied singers performing in the church of St Michael Archangel, which was very moving. An exciting trip on the busy Metro followed, where we admired the decorations. They must have the steepest longest escalators, which just go on and on. At 1300 we were given lunch at a Russian restaurant featuring 19th century food; we had a salad, Russian soup, Beef Stroganoff and dessert, enough to fortify us for more sightseeing in the cold weather.
Continuing by coach, we stopped at a park with a lake and a good view of Novodevichy Convent, another iconic landmark. At this point a Russian appeared and sold hats and postcards to our group. The men looked very attractive in their 'fur' hats, but I later learnt that only tourists buy this sort of headgear. We visited the Cemetery where recent famous Russians are buried, and admired the decorations and sculpture, but not the numerous plastic flowers. Our guide related plenty of anecdotes and gossip about some of the occupants such as Boris Yeltsin.
Back in the warm coach we travelled to Sparrow Hills and the University, to get a panoramic view of Moscow, not clearly visible. We warmed up in the coach again, then off to see the Tomb of the Unknown Warrior with the Eternal Flame and see the changing of the guard, then briskly walked through the arch into Red Square. It is quite amazing to stand there and remember all the events which have taken place in Red Square.
Our guide described the different building surrounding us, and we walked towards St Basil's Cathedral with its distinctive towers. Before entering St Basils we opted for a hot drink in the large modern mall on one side of the square. At 6 pm we entered St Basils and climbed steep stairs to view the various chapels, many of which are being renovated. Then I heard what sounded like a Morrisman band and we found ourselves in a room overlooking Red Square drinking vodka (keep the glass as a souvenir), tasting red caviar, and enjoying 4 colourful musicians in national costume who were highly entertaining. By now everyone was warmed up again and in VERY good spirits. Back in the coaches for the hotel and a quick wash and brush up for dinner, which was included, and an a la carte or buffet could be chosen.
Instructions and paperwork from our Australian guides were given in readiness for the morning. We have a doctor on the tour who doesn’t seem very busy right now.
So today, Monday, we set off at 0945 in 2 coaches for the trip to one of 10 Moscow railway stations. Another surprise awaited us. Ushered into a large, very attractive salon with much ceiling decoration, we were offered champagne (well, it was getting on for 11am) and caviar canapes and a floor show: 2 musicians and 2 singers and dancers entertained us and we all cheered and clapped our hands....... after the champagne.
Then it was time to see our train, the Golden Eagle Trans Siberian Express, and find our carriages. I thought the compartments would be nice but I was not expecting an ensuite bathroom with shower, fresh flowers, half bottle of vodka, Russian doll, DVD player, electric socket, wardrobe, hairdryer, table with seat one side and folding 3/4 bed on the other - all just for me. And everything looked new.
We had lunch in a charming old fashioned dining car where 4 courses were served along with complimentary wine. Everyone is friendly and we meet different people at mealtimes. Thankfully we have name badges.
I turned in at 11.30pm; the bed was as comfortable as the Moscow Marriott, but it was a bumpy night. I expect I shall get used to shaking about.
March 19
Approaching Urgench, UzbekistanI accidentally deleted my long account of the journey to Volgograd and all the sightseeing there… War Memorial, River Volga and City Sights. A fellow passenger printed out info on all our destinations from WIKIPEDIA, so anyone can see what these places are like, and I will not elaborate.
For the first time, I spotted signs of green on the landscape, a big contrast from the Kazakh Desert which we passed through yesterday. We travelled by train for 24 hours and enjoyed good meals, free wine and beer with meals, a presentation about the Russian people by our two Russian guides, and enjoyed the company of our fellow passengers We were confined to the train yesterday and we enjoyed a Russian lunch of pancakes with red caviar (salmon), 2 kinds of vodka - one with chillis! - a most delicious Borscht (?) soup with garlic rolls, and desert....and of course wine. The Australians are pleased that we are drinking Australian wine. You would not believe the noise that 69 happy travellers make over meals, its deafening, but shows that there is plenty of camaraderie!
The landscapes have been flat and grey or brown, with very scrubby vegetation. Snow has finally gone but hard frost has been covering the ground until today. Small lakes were partly frozen Now and again you saw a group of cattle with no signs of people in the area, and wondered how they survived. Some camels and horses have been spotted, also a fox.
Because our private train has the lowest priority, we often stop at small villages and towns so that other rail traffic can take precedent. This also gives us the opportunity to look at the locals and surroundings and take photos from the train.
We left Kazakhstan during the night but will be returning to it on the 24th after leaving Tashkent.
When we arrive in Urgench late morning we shall go by coach to Khiva and lunch in a palace, they say.
Meanwhile as we travel through low sand dunes with brown tufts of something, we suddenly pass through villages with animals, irrigated fields, patches of green, and some trees in blossom. Occasionally we get a friendly wave. We passed a small group of women in long colourful clothes and headscarves.
We are having another day of sunshine. No rain since leaving the UK, just a few snowflakes as we left Moscow and also for a few minutes in Volgograd.
There was a 3 hours time difference between the UK and Moscow, and last evening during dinner we had to put our watches forward by 2 hours.. So I am now 5 hours ahead of you.
We can request coffee etc anytime in the bar or from Andrew my Russian steward. It comes with biscuits and sweets. With almost no exercise on the train, I suspect we are all putting on weight. We are offered English breakfast, a light 3 course lunch, and 3 course dinner, and it is all beautifully presented.
We arrived in Urgench on 19 March and went by coach to Khiva, 30 km away. We enjoyed lunch altogether in the Khan's Country Palace in a highly decorated high ceilinged room. We had simple but ample food with green tea. The ladies joined a long queue afterwards.
We have three coaches to take us sightseeing and there are always free spaces and plenty of bottles of water. Local knowledgeable English speaking guides accompany us everywhere. Individual receivers with headphones are provided so a running commentary ensures we know what we are observing as we walk about the many historic buildings. The people of Uzbekistan are invariably friendly and want to know which country you are from. The ladies are very colourfully dressed, often in sparkling fabrics, but most men wear black. Many young women are fashionably dressed with stiletto heeled shoes, sometimes wearing velvet or sparkling fabric and usually in bright colours.
Everywhere the Uzbeks are selling souvenirs, embroidery, carvings, pashminas etc. When you have to refuse, they do not get unpleasant. Most do not mind having their photos taken. The children are especially appealing and never rude. Pens sometimes get handed out by our Tour Escorts. We are advised to bargain, and it gets easier the more you shop. The local currency is Sum, some of which I acquired in my change when striking a bargain buying postcards. So far it has all been very good natured.
The inner city of Khiva is surrounded by high walls and is a living museum with about 5000 people living there. It was recently restored by UNESCO for its 2,500th anniversary
We enjoyed Uzbech special bread and jams made from apricots, figs, and a kind of jam made with flour cooked for a long time, with green tea, before the drive back to our lovely train, dinner and the overnight trip to Bukhara. The journey was extremely bumpy and I looked forward to a stationery bed the next night.
March 20
BukharaWe arrived at the old town of Bukhara (which dates back from the 1st century) mid morning 20 March and prepared an overnight bag for the stopover at the Bukhara Palace Hotel that same night.
After breakfast on the train we went by coach for a 2 km walk through this fascinating city fill of mosques, minarets, madressahs or schools, and fortresses. We stopped many times listening to our commentaries. We visited the Ark, a walled city, where 3000 people lived in the past. Nearby is the Registan Square where floggings and executions were common. The sights of Bukhara are incredible and many photos were taken.
After a buffet lunch at the hotel we visited the Khan's Summer Palace and enjoyed some free time looking at the bazaars before dinner at a historic madressah.
On our return to the Bukhara Palace Hotel, I didn’t manage to send my emails (but received a dozen). On the plus side, I managed to wash my hair in the shower. I find the train a bit wobbly for that sort of thing and you have to keep pumping out the hot water with one hand. The little bathroom has everything you need, but a third hand would come in handy when we are doing a fair clip.
March 21
SamarkandWe departed for Bukhara station after breakfast and left for Samarkand mid morning, passing mostly flat countryside. What I had thought to be frost for some days turned out to be salt which is prevalent over a lot of the land Uzbekistan. To grow cotton the soil has to be washed 5 times. The chief exports are cotton, rice, oil and silk.
Arrived at Samarkand after lunch on the train and visited the impressive Registan Square and surrounding ancient buildings. At 0900 the next day, 22nd, we set out for our morning tour of 'Pearl of the Muslin World. Dating back to 8th centre BC it was destroyed by Alexander the Great in 329 BC and later fell to Genghis Khan.
Tombs opened in 1941 confirmed that Timur and his grandson Ulugh Beg were buried there. Many famous buildings have collapsed in earthquakes, and have been restored. Everywhere we encountered good natured Uzbeks with colourful handcrafted items to sell, in wood, embroidery and pottery They contrast with Russians in Moscow and Volgograd (Stalingrad) who didn’t smile or make eye contact.
There seem to be large factories around the city, and long suburbs with a mixture of small houses with a garden and animals, to 2 storey buildings. The weather has been dry and mainly sunny.
Many people are encouraged to breed silk worms. Silk was exported to China and originally came from Uzbekistan. The Silk Route we are told was not of people but of things, carried on short journeys, and eventually the items would travel across continents. The exceptions to this were the great travellers such as Marco Polo, Ghengis Kahn, Alexander the Great and Timur (who was lame and therefore known as Tamerlane).
We were to stay in Samarkand for 2 nights taking only hand luggage. Both the hotels in Bukhara and Samarkand and very large but not plush and the latter had no hot water on my 6th floor. Someone said they were typical Russian Intourist style.
March 22
Khiva
We have enjoyed attractive and delicious food on the train, with lots of wine at lunch and dinner. Captain’s Choice also brings wine to our hotels and glasses are refilled. When we left the Urgench station midmorning, before setting off by bus to Khiva, a reception awaited us on the platform, with Vodka and musicians. At mealtimes on the train there is a real hubbub of friendly chatter, and we tend to join new people on our tables for 4. It would be unusual if no one complained, but I have heard very few complaints. There is always a steward on staff in every carriage, ready to make excellent coffee (with a chocolate and biscuits). Captains Choice staff keep an eye on all of us; the doctor makes calls where needed, e.g. dressing for an injury to a shin.We shall miss our Russian train when we reach the Chinese border and transfer to a Chinese train, with shared plumbing!
On our 2nd night in Samarkand we were treated to a special Uzbek dinner in a restaurant in the city where we were entertained with music and a fashion show which was stunning; clothes were obviously inspired by costumes of the past. Some husbands on the trip treated their wife with some handmade original designed clothes which they displayed the following night in the Crystal Ballroom of the Tashkent Intercontinental Hotel. I managed to resist these clothes and a lot of other goodies in the shops and markets. The special Uzbek dinner is very often various plates with sliced process cheese, salami, green salad, sliced or shredded cooked beetroot, plate of herbs, parsley, chives and coriander, sparse pieces of meat, maybe beef or lamb in gravy, some hot vegetables, followed by a variation of gateau. All washed down with wine and sometimes vodka or brandy.
March 23
TashkentLeft Samarkand for the station and our train to Tashkent with views of cotton fields, a huge power plant, and flatter countryside close to the border. We pass wheat farms, orchards and rice paddies. Arriving Tashkent in the afternoon in rain we did our sightseeing again by coach, with one party visiting the outdoor rail museum which apparently was spectacular, and our party visiting the museum of crafts where carpets, silks, ceramics, etc. were all admired, and there were opportunities for more shopping. Some passengers have bought a lot. One husband treated his wife to a black lamb coat to die for!
Tashkent was flattened by an earthquake in 1966 and has been rebuilt as a modern Soviet city with very wide boulevards, high apartments, and imposing public buildings and lovely parks. We had a good commentary during the sightseeing but only had a few hours as we had to leave at 0815 the next morning. Staying a 5 star hotel was bliss.
March 24
Tashkent to Almaty, Kazakhstan’s largest cityI had not heard of Almaty previously, but it is shown on the BBC TV world weather map on its own, in a large land mass. We were now travelling in Kazakhstan on the Russian train again, having crossed the border.
Dinner and breakfast were served on the train and we passed through Kyrgystan for about 20km without formalities as we did not stop there. Travelling north, we enjoyed mountainous and spectacular scenery as we entered the foothills of the Tien Shan Range.
Early afternoon, leaving main luggage on the train, we took an overnight bag for our stay at the country’s finest hotel, the Hyatt Regency Almaty. From the hotel we went in 3 coaches for a 25 km drive into the Tien Shan mountains and enjoyed lunch in a traditional style tent, called a ‘yurt’. This was very special with nice food and 4 Kazakh musicians to play for us. We dined at our luxurious hotel that evening.
March 26
Almaty – Kazakhstan/China borderThe sun was shining again as we did a tour of this prosperous city surrounded by the snow covered Tien Shan mountains. We visited the 56m high wooden Zenkhov Cathedral built without the use of nails in 1917 (which was crowded with worshippers and incense), the Museum of Kazakh Musical Instruments, the very interesting State Museum, and War Memorial. I was struck by the cosmopolitan appearance of Almaty with its wide roads, universities, modern buildings and designer shops.
Early afternoon The Golden Eagle Express departed for Alashankou on the Chinese border, with lunch on board. We travelled northeast on the Turk-Siberia railway, which runs from Istanbul to Novosibirsrk in Siberia. Then at Aktogay we reversed direction and headed southeast towards Urumchi in China. The latter was completed in early 90’s providing a link between Moscow and Beijing.
Our journey continued overnight to Druzhba on the border and in early morning we passed the shoreline of Alakul Lake which covers 1500 sq km, part of which appeared to be frozen.
This was our last night on the Russian train. We had all been invited to dine with one of the company’s owners, Geoff McGeary, and tonight was my turn. 6 of us enjoyed champagne, vodka, a party atmosphere and received a gold pin. He is a very interesting Australian, once the son of a small bus company owner. Now he is a tycoon.
March 27
Entering ChinaWe proceeded through Kazakh Passport Control and Customs at Druzhba with apprehension, and sadness at leaving our comfortable Golden Eagle Express. We were warned that the border crossing might be tedious, and cameras should not be used. In the event we were all photographed and a smiling Chinese welcomed each of us to China. One passenger was asked to open his luggage for no apparent reason, but this is normal, we were told.
Another tour group from Captain’s Choice were leaving the China Orient Express to take our places on the Golden Eagle Express, but we didn’t see them.
We eagerly boarded our ‘new’ home and met our Chinese attendants. Whilst our quarters were smaller, with no private bathrooms, the train itself seemed a less bumpy ride and I slept very well for the 3 nights I spent on it. We each had a gift of a Chinese dragon- embroidered kimono, and slippers, and various other gifts arrived during our journey.
We had our first Chinese lunch on board, then a welcome party at 8.30 pm and dinner at 9.30 pm and then we left the train very late to be driven to the new five star Sheraton Hotel near the centre of Urumchi where we would be staying until Sunday night.
A fellow passenger was taken from the train that night to the Urumchi hospital with an acute appendicitis. An English speaking nurse was flown out from Beijing the following day, the operation was successful, and the couple rejoined us a week later in Beijing. The patient was lucky that the Tour Doctor made an accurate diagnosis.
March 28
UrumchiAt 0900 our 3 coaches departed on tour to the Heavenly Lake, 100 km NE of Urumchi, 1980m above sea level in a spectacular location dominated by 5,445 m high Bogda Feng (Peak of God). It was a beautiful morning and some people walked on the huge, frozen lake. Sadly, there was nothing heavenly about the worst Asian style lavatories in China.
On our way back to Urumchi we passed groups of yurt tents, carefully wrapped in plastic to keep out the weather.
Urumchi is another great metropolis indicating that trade has been going on between these centres for many hundreds of years. We enjoyed visiting the Xinjiang Provincial Museum with its intriguing Xinjiang ancient corpse exhibition.
We enjoyed dinner at our fine hotel.
April 1
JiayuguanJiayuguan was built in 1958 and has iron and steel industry. We visited the end of the Great Wall of China and some tourists climbed to the top. Then we went on to the giant Jiayuguan Fort, dominating the pass that once welcomed travellers trekking into China from the west. At the entrance to the Fort we were welcomed by 2 lines of guards dressed in blue and silver armour costumes and a group photo was taken.
We returned to the COE for lunch and departed Jiayuguan.
We commenced our longest journey travelling east to Xian across the desert. Some of us enjoyed a Mandarin lesson by one of our Chinese guides, and at 6.30 pm we had a fancy dress party on the train, with masks, kimonos, pyjamas, hats, funny specs, and anything one could think of, and of course lots of wine. It was a hilarious evening. At some stage the train stopped at a station and I wondered what the locals thought of our shenanigans that could be seen on the train!
I was told that the engine drivers and engine are changed every 4 hours, which probably accounted for scary loud bangs and bumps in the night.
April 2
Jiayuguan – XianWe travelled through attractive scenery on the way to Xian arriving at 10am. We had a 3 night stay at the recently opened 5 star Sofitel Renmin Square Hotel.
Our first view was of the spectacular walls of the City of Xian right outside the very crowded station.
On our arrival at the hotel one of our younger members invited me to join a dozen others to travel out into the country in a small bus to visit a farm owned by the State. One of our Chinese guides had a friend whose family worked on the farm. We saw the cattle, milking sheds, etc and the inside of the farmhouse where about 20 farm workers live. We also passed many acres of plastic horticultural tunnels. The Chinese are growing food on every available piece of land to feed their 1.3 billion people.
During the next 3 days we visited the Shaanxi Provincial Museum, once the Temple of Confucius, housing a fine collection devoted largely to the history of The Silk Route, and we walked for an hour on the top of the wide city walls, 16 m thick, which surround the city for 14km.
Some of us found our way to the centre of Xian and spent time in a very large sophisticated department store and found assistants and customers alike friendly and charming in spite of the language difference. Walking back to the hotel we passed lovely parks with families flying kites and playing with their children. We felt blessed by the continuing warm, dry weather.
The first evening we departed for the Tang Dynasty Restaurant and Show which was very spectacular and depicted life during the Tang Dynasty. I had to buy the DVD.
Xian has been one of China’s most important trading cities for 2000 years and has seen the rise and fall of numerous Chinese Dynasties The Chinese warred with neighbouring countries in order to bring horses back to China which they desperately needed.
April 3
XianThe highlight of our Silk Route tour was a visit to see the Terracotta Warriors discovered in the 1970’s by some farm workers in a field on the outskirts of Xian. An old man, purported to be one of these farm workers, put a flamboyant signature on my souvenir copy. To see 6,000 terracotta figures of warriors and horses is a sight not to be forgotten.
Our guide told us that 3,000 concubines were made to drink mercury and be sacrificed for the burial.
April 5
Xian – LuoyangWe travelled by China Orient Express to Luoyang leaving Shaanxi Province and entering Hebei Province where the Yellow River meets the River Wei. We had lunch on board and arrived Luoyang shortly after.
Beside the picturesque Wei River we visited the 10,000 Buddha Cave build in 680 AD containing thousands of tiny bas relief Buddhas and sculptures. All in all there are 2100 caves. A lot of climbing was involved.
We later drove through the busy streets of this major provincial city to our dinner venue, admiring the many impressive buildings. Then we rejoined our train for the overnight journey to Beijing.
April 6
Arrived in BeijingWe vacated our China Orient Express for the last time, thanking our Chinese staff.
Immediately we set off in 3 coaches for Beijing’s Temple of Heaven and Summer Palace before checking into the luxurious hotel, the Westin Beijing located close to Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City, all teaming with thousands of Chinese celebrating.
April 7
BeijingOur full day tour took in Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden City, and the Great Wall of China.
There were tour groups everywhere, all led by their flag holder. The jostling crowds were indescribable, but no one felt threatened. In Tiananmen Square our guide requested we save sensitive questions for when we were on the bus, ‘because of plain clothes listeners’.
The whole day was memorable, and the evening was rounded off with pre-dinner drinks with our new friends, and with our Farewell Peking Duck Dinner which was at the most famous Peking Duck Restaurant in Beijing. Wine flowed, speeches were made and goodbyes said.
19 of us and one guide were leaving for Shanghai the next day and the rest were going home to the UK and Australia.
April 8
Beijing – ShanghaiWe boarded the Air China flight for Shanghai, landed and were taken to the Westin Shanghai Hotel early evening. My adventurous New Zealand friend suggested we have a look-see and so we walked to the Bund, 2 blocks from our hotel.
The Bund is a wide promenade overlooking the river and all humanity is there trying to get close to the wall overlooking the water. The view is outstanding with ‘new Shanghai’ skyscrapers on the opposite side of the river, gaily lit pleasure boats sailing past as well as normal tugs etc., and floating restaurants moored alongside. There are vendors at every yard, and I resisted 3 Gucci watches for 50 Huan (£6).
We walked for an hour and I am ashamed to say we dined at a KFC for £3 at the foot of the Bund, enjoying the conversation of a young Chinese seaman and his wife.
We almost didn’t get back to the hotel because some of the lights in Shanghai went out at 10 pm and our hotel had a huge illuminated lotus flower on the roof, which was no longer lit up.
April 9
ShanghaiAfter a walk on the Bund surrounded by traders trying to sell us souvenirs, watches, etc. our remaining group of 19 went by coach to the lovely 400 year old Yu Garden to admire its decorative pavilions, ponds and fascinating photogenic Chinese architecture.
Within a few yards outside was a bustling market with wonderful bargains and only 40 minutes to shop! Time for lunch at a local restaurant before touring the main sights of Shanghai, including the renowned modern Shanghai Museum. The French Concession quarter, a pedestrianised street, was also visited, full of boutiques, restaurants and pavement cafes. A cocktail was cheaper than a glass of wine here!
After more sightseeing we had to have an early dinner at a restaurant because of a complimentary visit to a renowned Shanghai acrobatic troupe – which was fabulous.
One more day before the end of the trip.
April 10
Shanghai – Suzhou – ShanghaiI forgot to mention that my 21st floor hotel room overlooked The Bund – a magnificent view.
We were taken for a full day tour visit top the nearby serene city of Suzhou, with its picturesque gardens. Suzhou is situated on the first, 2000 yr old canal, 1700 km long and it is the 3rd longest in the world. Suzhou is very picturesque, full of wedding dress shops, and the favourite venue for weddings in this part of China. We saw several wedding couples.
Our boat trip on the Grand Canal was lovely and we saw many old houses and visited a market.
Then we toured the famous silk factory, seeing the whole process from the cocoon to the woven fabrics to the elegant showrooms.
We all remarked how friendly the Chinese people were towards us, often asking to be in our photos. I have great admiration for their hard work and self discipline. I thought they might seem oppressed but I saw no sign of this. It will be interesting to see what happens in China in the next few years.
All good things must end and 5 of us did in style, dining at ‘On the Bund’ 4th floor restaurant overlooking the Bund also with a terrace. After 11 days of Chinese food, I enjoyed a delicious western meal.
I was flying to the UK the next morning, and I was very gratified when some of my new Australian and 1 NZ friends came to see me off at 0730 Saturday morning. I am very proud to have been awarded the new title of Honorary Australian!!!
