Blog Detail
- The Silk Route by Private Train - Beijing to Moscow
- Tour of The Silk Road Tour By Private Train
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START AND DAY 1 – FRIDAY/SATURDAY - LEAVE SYDNEY AND IN BEIJING
We travelled Business Class and it was great, beds were great and it even helps if you know the Captain who comes out of the cockpit when you land to wish you all the best. Even managed a glass of Muscat with desert which I haven't drunk for years - no breath test.
Beijing airport is absolutely huge and was totally empty except for our flight when we landed. You walk for what seems miles to get to Passport Control , then down an escalator and into a train which takes you some distance before you actually get to the baggage collection area. The Westin Hotel is pure class and very expensive. A glass of Jacobs Creek is about A$40! And Beijing itself is huge. The maps show about 3 blocks to somewhere and you are driving for about 30 minutes - they leave out the 50 little side streets in between. So today we have walked miles – did not even stop for lunch. Rickshaw through Old Beijing and green tea in a private home in the Hutongs, the White Dagoda, the Wall of the Seven Dragons and the walk round Beihai Park where lots of people were doing tai chi, ribbon gymnastics and playing Chinese musical instruments, painting calligraphy with water on paths, the Bell Tower and the Drum Tower, Prince Gong's Palace and gardens and finally 290 steps up to the top of Jungshan Park with views over the Forbidden City. Dinner in the Hotel tonight and then a trip to the Night Markets which is full of food stalls offering beetle and centipede kebabs among other things
And so to bed - Goodnight.
DAY 2 – SUNDAY - BEIJING
Everyone has finally arrived – Singapore Airlines did not make the connection at Singapore for the Sydney passengers so they finally got here at 8.30 am. In the meantime, the Simpsons, who stop for no-one, filled up their free morning with a visit to the Centre for the Performing Arts and then onto the Silk Market. The Centre looks like half an egg or a glass computer mouse rising out of a lake. Very big and quite spectacular. The Silk Market on the other hand is five or six floors of tiny stalls and the only word you need to know is NO, NEIN, NIET, NON or any combination of these.
Twelve o'clock saw the official start on our first bus tour. First a full Chinese meal at the Summer Palace and then a long walk around the beautiful grounds including a very large two story marble ship in the lake – the Emperor had spent his money on that and the gardens instead of the Navy and consequently was defeated in the next war. Then on to the Temple of Heaven – beautiful but maybe not as spectacular as some other sites – the Simpsons had seen a little more of Beijing by this time. Jane then went for a walk and found a shopping centre Prue and Claire would die for – four marble open floors under a curved glass ceiling of nothing but world class fashion shops in a quiet corner of the financial district – we have nothing like it in Sydney except maybe the QVB. To finish the day, we were all taken off to the top restaurant for Peking Duck in all China. Has been voted the best for about 170 years and is nothing like Aussie Chinese restaurants. The food was fabulous and as all Australian and New Zealand wines were included and we did not have to drive, a good time was had by all.
DAY 3 – MONDAY - BEIJING
We got a feel for Beijing weekday traffic – there are about the same number of people in Beijing as the whole of Australia. Today was the big three day – Tiananmen Square, the Forbidden Palace and the Great Wall although our Chinese guide also organized for us to go through the Olympic site to see the Birdcage and the Water Cube. The Square was just as it is photographed and just as big. However, we were warned to watch out for any scuffle and make sure we did not photograph it. Saw one scuffle and as no-one in our party was arrested, we must have done as we were told. Likewise, the Forbidden City is also ginormous – huge gates and squares before you even get to the Forbidden City – Gate Three is called the Gate of Good Behaviour. Each door has a threshold to keep out evil spirits. However, in the Emperor’s quarters, they have been removed – the LAST Emperor was only two and a half and like to ride his bike!!!!!
From there to a Friendship store near the Great Wall - another delightful Chinese lunch (will we be saying this in 10 days time?). But this store is mainly cloisineire work – the making and selling of – totally superb. And so to the Great Wall and your parents excelled. Only one couple got higher and she does marathons for enjoyment!!!. A drive through the Olympic site but, apart from the Beehive and the Water Cube (which looks smaller than the photos), I think Sydney’s looked better
Our last night in Beijing - tomorrow we start on our long train journey - so far FABULOUS.
Love to all.
DAY 4 – TUESDAY – BEIJING AND TRAIN TO LUOYANGA relatively quiet day – we joined the train at about 9.00am and sped off across China to our first overnight away from Beijing, the city of Luoyang. Surprise, surprise, China Rail arrived a little early.
Some observations – Chinese babies still have a split at the back of their pants and squat anywhere they like although we haven't actually seen any evidence (or trod in any for that matter). We have seen no cats or dogs which is a bit of a worry although the meals have been great. Chinese men still spit but at least you get a warning – there is a noise like a diesel truck starting up before they actually do it. There is no such thing as a pedestrian crossing – the bikes just go straight through and turning buses just keep on turning. Chinese women climb the Great Wall in very high heels often with diamantes on their boots and back sides – we were right behind them.
Enough for tonight – sleep tight.
DAY 5 – WEDNESDAY – LUOYANG AND TRAIN TO XIANThe Hotel looks like something out of Las Vegas and is huge but we have our own sitting room and a bathroom you could swing three cats in.
First up for the day was a visit to the 10,000 Buddha caves – there are actually 100,000 but most of these are not open to the public. They are honeycombed into the bank of the River Li and the Buddhas are from about 2cms to 17m tall in grottos and shallow man made caves all along the cliff face. Like true Royalty, we travelled to the caves in large golf buggies while the poor people had a very long walk. By the way, never trust tour brochures – the temperature was 27 degrees and the girls are asking if we can go shopping for cool clothes. Lunch in a very swank restaurant including a delectable dish of Asian mint, beans and pork mince - should have got the recipe.
Back in town we went to the Underground Museum – the Emperor's carriage, his six horses , his senior officials carriage and his four horses, family pets, household utensils and one body (caught under the wheels of the carriage which figures with Chinese traffic ). Just as it was when buried. Fortunately, the Emperor, his wives, children, concubines etc. were buried elsewhere.
And so back on the train with a few hours to Xian – surprise, surprise, China Rail was late. However, the Hotel is rather grand – the Sofitel is huge with a West Wing and an East Wing and a 400m underground Art Gallery linking the two. Our usual sitting room attached to the bedroom and a rather large bathroom – swing two cats size.
Signing off.
DAY 6 – THURSDAY - XIAN
A packed day - first to the Forest of Steles, which is not really a forest but a Museum of ancient writings – stone tablets. Also our first mention of Confucius. The largest tablet is our favourite – The Stone of Filial Piety – our children take note. From there another walk on a Wall, this time surrounding the old city and only 90 steps to the battlements. Then on to a jade factory. Jane finally found her jade horse – about 623,000 Yuan and also an absolutely gorgeous silk embroidered picture of trees – about 132,000 Yuan. A total of about $A190,000. Julie – tell Andrew Jane will be working for ever. After a dumpling lunch (it is too dry for rice around here so wheat is the basic staple) we headed off for the Wild Goose Pagoda - the first Buddhist Monk who travelled to India returned and built his Pagoda. Xian is also the official start of the old Silk route and the Provincial Museum - once the Temple of Confucius - covers its history – costumes, housing, jewellery. Not enough time.
For the second time on this tour we had a “put on your glad rags” evening, this time to a fabulous theatre restaurant and stage show. Fantastic costumes, great dancing and background music using ancient musical instruments played by gorgeously robed girls. Remember that on this tour all wines beer and soft drinks are included and they are really good Aussie wines – nothing but the best.
DAY 7 – FRIDAY - XIAN
Inevitably, we had to go to the Warriors and they are truly amazing. Buildings have been erected over the digs reminding me of many Canberra buildings including the War Memorial except they are all surrounding a huge square. There are three pits, the first the most famous, the second in the early stages and the third, small but full off high ranking officials and, in some ways, the most splendid while No. 1 is obviously the most spectacular. You have seen the photos, try and see the real thing before you are completely bored with the Simpson's photos.
The inevitable Chinese lunch (we are eating Moroccan or seafood tonight as we have a choice of any restaurant in the hotel) and then we had a choice of going back to the hotel to rest, swim, have various massages, shop or go to a Neolithic village. Naturally, the Simpson's chose the village. Very interesting until we found the Museum which was amazing – the pottery was so symmetrical, the fish hooks were so perfectly formed out of bone that they looked like modern fish hooks, they had one of the earliest forms of Chinese writing. Our grandmas would have been pleased to wear the fine bone hair pins. Definitely worth the visit and a lot better than shopping. Shopping, I might add is not like our big Malls where you find everything – the Malls we have found are small and scattered – found a Jeans West store but nothing else around it – strange.
Off for dinner – more later.
DAY 8 – SATURDAY – XIAN TO JIAYUGUAN
A train day from Xian to Jiayuguan - very flat but much more prosperous - satellite dishes, solar panels and some of the houses painted and with bright red entry gates studded in gold (fake of course). And then suddenly into the mountains. First of all a beautiful dam which we crossed by bridges again and again – the rock faces just drop straight into the water and the dam meanders between these rock faces like a river – quite spectacular. Just as spectacular is the four lane divided road they are building though the mountains, over gorges and crossing river flats. China is currently spending a mint on infrastructure. Then out on to the plains and the Gobi desert I think moonscape is the only way to describe it although it is early spring and they are waiting for rains so there are tilled fields waiting. All browny grey and desolate but at the same time awe inspiring.
Our first night on the train and hysterical trying to pack a bag for tomorrow night and getting ready for bed with floor space of about three feet by three feet and two adults. However, the beds are very comfortable, the pillows soft and railway lines are very smooth in preparation for the fast train service. And we had desert for the first time – boy did I realise I needed a sugar fix – raspberry mouse and a strawberry on top. Delicious. And the showers work – a whole carriage full of shower compartments, the water is hot, they are quite large and they have ceiling heaters so you don't get cold.
Some observations – Xian produces wings for Boeing aircraft and bottles for Coca Cola. The wings are a bit of a worry. Our erstwhile leader feels we are on four hourly feeds – it feels like it too. Our guide's Grade 5 daughter has not heard of Mao.
DAY 9 – SUNDAY - JIAYUGUANWe woke to the moonscape but this time it was quite steep hills instead of the flat grey/brown plains. It looks like it has not rained for a century. Our arrival at the station was an eye-opener Down both sides of the steps were rows of red track suited elderly women with bright green sashes and drums doing a dance to greet us led by a lady playing cymbals. Then they all lined up to form a guard of honour as we drove out of the car park. Next, we arrived at the hotel to be greeted outside under the portico by rows of staff and fireworks. Then at the restaurant for lunch was another honour guard of waitresses and waiters in bright yellow coats and black pants – I could get used to this Royal attention.
First to the end of the Great Wall and another climb – only 231m straight up this time but a spectacular view from the top for those of us who made it. Then back into town for our four hourly feed and off to the Fort which guarded the entrance to China from the west and a chance to practice our archery from the battlements. Next, to the Great Wall Museum – I must admit that if I try to remember the contents of a Museum we saw five days ago I am getting a little muddled. Returned to the city and several of us set off for the fruit, vegetable and meat markets – more later when I can bear to think of the meat markets again.
Oh, we are shortly off for our next four hourly feed!!!!
DAY 10 – MONDAY – JIAYUGUAN TO DUNHUANG
We left the hotel this morning to the usual guard of honour lining the drive out of the gate although they fell short as there were no fireworks as when we arrived – getting very used to this royalty, want to see a bit more of it when we get home. Earlier, we saw what looked like the entire staff do their early morning exercises in neat rows – chefs in uniform, doormen ditto’
The train raced between snow covered mountains across flat plains and across the Gobi desert – lunar landscape, villages with the usual satellite and solar and then into what looked like rice paddy fields but turned out to be miniature cotton fields. Nothing like the huge paddocks we get around Moree. Small flocks of goats and black faced sheep but no sheep dogs just a shepherd Watched a DVD on the Great Wall done by Americans and as we are now experts, we picked out all their mistakes. And then into Dun Huang – you should see the station – brand new, extremely modern, huge and in the middle of nowhere.
This will break everyone up – John thinks he did the splits on what appeared to be a 23 months pregnant camel. Yes, we went camel riding on the most incredible sand dunes I have ever seen. Fiona, the ones you slid down in WA were sand castle size – these were mountains Loads of fun and some great laughs. Then to Crescent Lake among the dunes and still on the camels. From there to our Hotel with no guard of honour but the concierge standing with a tray of hot towels at the entrance and a little lady inside the glass doors to collect them.
Just back after dinner in an enormous restaurant which had been booked solely for us – like the inside of a traditional temple, entrance by a huge courtyard, costumed ladies to greet us, superb food, a fabulous floor show with traditional music and as we came out into the courtyard, a fireworks display – rockets lighting up the night sky. Then back to wander through the night markets. DON’T YOU WISH!!!!
DAY 11 – TUESDAY – DUNHUANG AND THEN NIGHT TRAIN TO TURPAN
A free morning and consequently you guys got a few photos. We got a chance to look at them for the first time and hurriedly chose a few that we thought the girls would like. The Great Wall photo was only about half way up but the view from the top had the usual China haze. Then a race to the markets (lots of strange foods, cheap clothes, live chooks and fish) and where we didn't buy anything and then back for our four hourly feed before departing for the Mogao Caves – 492 grottos carved in to the hillside with murals and paintings of Buddha. An amazing place going back to the 4th Century.
I now want a silk carpet – that was our next port of call and actually not on our itinerary but just one of the add-ons Captain's Choice gives you. We watched them being woven and then inevitably went into the show room. I don't think anyone is actually lugging an 8x10’ carpet back with them but I believe and order has been placed for a much larger one.
And so back to the train for showers (dust storm all afternoon and we have our fabulous shower carriage) dinner and our second night on board. Last night of eating on the Chinese train (we have two nights of dining at the Sheraton in Urumchi) and surprise, surprise, we had not drunk our entire quota of wines with lunch and dinner. A few of us had a very late night in the lounge car with our erstwhile leader before tottering off to bed. And John wasn't one of them – his wife outlasted him.
DAY 12 – WEDNESDAY - TURPAN AND TRAIN TO URUMCHI
Thought China was getting cleaner the further west we went but the rail stop at Turpan put that story on the back burner. Fortunately the town, about 58klms from the rail stop was much cleaner except for the markets – this is an area for donkeys and there is no thought of a pooper scooper in this town.
Our first stop was the incredible 2000 year old irrigation system. Turpan is the second lowest place in the world – 508 feet below sea level, the most isolated city in the world from any sea, the hottest place in China (temps over 45 in July and August), the driest place in China (16mm a year) and grows 30% of China's grapes. Hence this unbelievable underground irrigation system – a good lesson for us Aussies. Next was the ancient Village dating back to about 100BC – what seemed like mud buildings and a huge Buddha temple housing about 500 monks – probably very sophisticated for its time. Our four hourly feed was followed by a trip to the bazaar which is always fascinating – meat hanging up, lurid carpets, shoes, bags and local tribal hats bought by several of our party. From there it was a visit to a private house to hear traditional music being played and try the various local raisins and sultanas plus dried pineapple.
The next stage was by bus – 3 hours of divided highway built in the Chinese style – quickly with bumps. Thank goodness for our train. The Sheraton in Urumchi is, to say the least, grand. Our bathroom is on the tenth floor, about the size of our bedroom with a glass wall looking over the city- definitely a six cat bathroom. The bedroom is proportionally larger – we must have a corner room because it also has ceiling to floor windows. Luxury keep on coming. Ten of us had a private dining room for a middle eastern dinner and the service was plentiful but hysterical – two extra joined us and it took about ¾ hour to get their place settings.
DAY 13 – THURSDAY - URUMCHI – HEAVENLY LAKE, THE MUSEUMS AND TRAIN TO THE BORDER
Today we really seem to have gone to Heaven – the most incredible blue skies, Canadian type road up the mountains, frozen lake we could walk on and snow covered mountains. From the hottest place in China to one of the coldest places in China in the space of 3 hours on the road. Our erstwhile leader has been here six times and says it is the best he has seen it – and no wind. Saw the local yurts (tented houses), had snow fights and generally loved everything. Then back to the Sheraton and our first western meal for lunch before going on to the best Museum I think we have seen -English labels on all the exhibits. One section was devoted to the ethnic groups in the province which is the size of 16% of the whole of China and the costumes, shawls, hats etc were just so interesting. Some of the colours were so brilliantly intense you could barely look at them and then the next ethnic group was muted – mind blowing.
We have our luxurious suites until 7.00 tonight, have a dine-around (any restaurant in the hotel) and then back to the train where we will cross the border tomorrow morning and change to the Russian train - the group that started in Moscow will swap and go on to Beijing on the Chinese train. Can't believe China is over but Kazakhstan and the other countries before Moscow will be fascinating.
Nei How
DAY 14- FRIDAY – DEPART CHINA – OVERNIGHT TRAIN
We know why we arrive at the border at 8.00 and don't depart for 8 hours – border security gone crazy. WE ARE NOW ON THE GOLDEN EAGLE TRANS SIBERIAN EXPRESS. WOW!! We had a single compartment on the Chinese train – very comfortable but very small. We have now been upgraded to Registan Class (ie, first class) on the Russian train. Not that either of us are complaining – we have always said we would sail below the crews quarters on the Orion just to get on the ship. We had a ball on the Chinese train, fabulous carriage attendants and not a thing to complain about. Coffee and snacks whenever we wanted them and constant attention. HOWEVER, we do have our own bathroom (under floor heating) fabulous shower, personal TV and DVD player, hanging space and room to move without one of us having to sit on the chair. Oh. and two bottles of Vodka on our table along with the flowers etc. Had the flowers on the Chinese train but not the Vodka!! Yet to test the beds – the Chinese ones were very comfortable and a smooth ride.
We swapped groups at the border – the ones that started in Moscow were a huge group compared to ours and looked a lot frailer – not so many Great Wall climbers. The border crossing was interesting including one of our number being called up on the Chinese side for her tablets and the same passenger being called up on the Kazak side by which time she was panicking – it turned out she was the oldest in our group and they were doing an interview for a local paper but the questions sounded as if she was about to be arrested. The five in our carriage decided to test out the Vodka and after the wines your father is now sound asleep until the train goes. Lunch was delectable in a dining car reminiscent of the Ritz Hotel.
DAY 15 – SATURDAY – ALMATY – HYATT FOR NIGHT
Trained through the night and arrived at Almaty 1, the engine changed ends and we set off for Almaty 2. Unfortunately, your father had been up in the night and has an attack of the colly wobbles. However, he was determined not to miss anything apart from his meals and as his jeans don't fit, missing meals is not a bad idea.
Our first stop was the Russian Orthodox Cathedral – wooden structure using no nails and then covered with plaster, then painted these fantastic colours with gold that catches the sun. Parents' Day so people bring food to the cathedral to be blessed and then to the local hall for a feast with their parents. Next to the Museum of Musical Instruments – the very very old to just the very old. The War Memorial with the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front which is very impressive and then a drive up into the mountains to see the empty dam – there in case they have another flood and mud/boulder slide but nothing since 1973 and it is filled with small trees. Then the fog really set in. Fortunately, as this is supposed to be the site of the Winter Asian games, we had already got photos of the speed skating rink etc. Then to lunch in a yurt – an old nomadic tent completely lined with carpets which could be warm in winter and cool in summer. We ate horse and supposedly yak and also listened to a group playing ancient musical instruments in full costume – great. Needless to say, your father did not part take in the food. (he did listen to the music though – John’s edit comment)
Down the mountain and into the National Museum and saw a lot of Kazakhstan history, jewellery, costumes, yurts, etc – fascinating. Back to the hotel and put father to bed so I walked for about 2 hours to take photos of brides all going to the same photographic spot. Dinner in the hotel where father is feeling a little better but opted to stay in his room while mother had a Mad Apple cocktail which cost a fortune – my mental arithmetic brain has gone into hibernation – we don’t have to think – Captain’s Choice does it for you
And so to bed.
DAY 16 – SUNDAY - ALMATY – TRAIN FOR NIGHT TO TASHKENT
Optional tour this morning which your parents naturally took – father feeling a lot better but still a little wary of food. First stop was the Green Market – two levels, the top one for 1st class produce and the lower level for seconds. The displays were dramatic and so clean – even the meat section smelt clean. The dried fruits, nuts, caviar (a large portion of today’s lunch along with vodka and then borsch accompanied by chilli vodka – WOW) milk products – the layout would almost have done justice to the Royal Easter Show District Exhibit but on a small scale. Then a bonus – every two months they have a craft market where craft workers from the local regions come in – embroidery, silver, camel hair, cashmere, alpaca, jewellery, carpets. I could actually live in Almaty – clean, beautifully laid out and the snow capped mountains making it a very pretty city.
And so back on the train with the above lunch. Most of the afternoon we trained it through undulating hills without a tree in sight except around the little villages. Kazakhstan is a country of white houses with blue doors and window frames, white fences of concrete blocks with fancy tops – very picturesque. Drinks, dinner, drinks and then a mad game which our erstwhile leader devised. During the night we passed through Kyrgyzstan briefly and are now waiting at Customs to get into Uzbekistan with officials in funny hats.
DAY 17 – MONDAY – TASHKENTTashkent and a fabulous welcome – local musicians playing traditional instruments in traditional costume and a “bridal” table set out with glasses of champagne - and this was just on the station platform!!!! Then to see the National Steam Train Museum – beautiful old engines sort of restored. Unfortunately, some of our gathering were bored and persuaded the leaders to skip the short train journey – they said they had had three weeks on a train. Spoil sports. Then to our Hotel – The Intercontinental. Not quiet so opulent as the Sheraton bathroom in Urumchi but we do have the delegation from Oman staying so it can't be all that bad – talk about blasé.
After our four hourly feed and the most superb desert, we departed for the main Mosque much of which dates back to 16th century but also houses a copy of the Koran on Giselle skin from the 7th century – 6 were produced after Mohammad's death, three lost and this is one of the remaining. Next to an old Jewish merchant's house now a museum with the most fabulous ceilings you could dream of – just hope the photos come out. Dinner in the hotel tonight but not in the Dome Restaurant – the Omanis snavelled it despite Captain's Choice previous booking – they must be fairly important.DAY 18 – TUESDAY – TASHKENT TO SAMARKAND
Back on our train for the run to Samarkand with just a simple lunch – 3 courses as usual with appropriate wines but how the mighty have fallen. Tonight’s accommodation is pure 50's Russian although in good Russian style the vodka was more than acceptable Let me take you through the room – old fashioned keys to the door, the bathroom door lock had been broken off some time ago, the toilet flushes for so long that I almost called the concierge before we had a flood, the screws at the back of the toilet seat are missing and of course no shampoo etc. Then on to the bedroom – two singles pushed together, one about three inches higher than the other, two single bedspreads one over the first bed and the second stretched over one bed and half over the other, two totally unmatched and lumpy looking pillows and a black and white TV (it is actually colour, but only the brightest red soccer shirt shows any hint of colour – John). But we all understand we are in and have a good laugh. Add to that the coffee in the restaurant is a tin of Nescafe with one of those old fashioned pump pot vacuum flasks of hot water and you get the message. However the staff are great and think Aussies are pretty good.
However, you can still be mighty envious. We got off the train and were transported to Emir Tamerlane's tomb which cannot be photographed because the roof is so high under the dome and is covered with gold patterns -unbelievably beautiful but too pale at that distance to shoot on a camera. Back to our hotel for pre-dinner drinks (did I mention the vodka was good) and then to a sound and light display in Registan Square . Fiona -nothing as professional as the one in Ballarat but you should see the buildings – three sides of a perfect square with indescribable buildings on three of the sides. Chairs and cushions provided for our personal viewing with English commentary. No-one else in this huge square except for the 24 of us – Captains Choice has done it again. I slept well.
DAY 19 - WEDNESDAY - SAMARKANDIf this up date is a load of rubbish you can blame our erstwhile leader. Sat next to him at dinner and if my glass wasn't full of vodka and we didn't “skol” he wasn't happy so I did my best to keep him happy. At the moment I cannot feel the floor but I can still walk in a straight line.
First thing this morning we went back to Registan Square and it was almost as dramatic as it was last night – stunning. We went in all three of the buildings and I will bore you silly with photos when I get home. Then on to a Mosque which was built to accommodate 10,000 people. Next door were the markets – each one is different depending on the area and although some of our group said they didn't want to see any more markets, we found the differences fascinating. Back for our four hourly feed and then we had a slight division – of all the coincidences, Uzbekistan was playing Australia in a World Cup qualifier and some of our more sports fanatics decided to watch it with our Uzbecki waiters. That would have been interesting but we chose to go to the necropolis where there was some beautiful tombs for Tamerlane's relatives with the most incredible blue tiles. From there to the observatory built in 1437 and very interesting because of the level of astronomy reached. There was a difference of opinion following this as some wanted to go back to the Hotel but sense prevailed and we had a democratic vote and went on to visit another carpet factory which turned out to be a highlight – the owner explained the staff benefits, methods of employment, marriage leave, maternity leave, methods of dying (silks not employees), keeping staff happy, training, staff selection (he promised to have a gift for the person who could correctly answer a question – what is the most important attribute they look for in a prospective employee (patience) - and guess who got it first, about 10th of a second before one of the women, so both John and Denise were given a very nice woven mat – John's editing comment number 2), and even demonstrated knot tying himself. The staff were all happy and loved having their photos taken. The whole demonstration and talk were brilliant.
I think the less said about this evening the better. Your father is currently snoring and this will need a lot of editing in the morning. The excellent dinner was accompanied with local music and a fashion shower. I think it is time for me to sign off after surviving my 4 glasses of Vodka quite intact!
DAY 20 – THURSDAY – SAMARKAND TO BUKHARA
You will be pleased to know that Jane is now vodka immune – large quantities last night plus white and red wine and no headache this morning. Arrived at the train station with our usual welcoming cup of coffee made how we like it by our ever attentive cabin steward Alexei – life is just too good. A very interesting “fill in the time” lecture by our Uzbecki guide/interpreter before our next four hourly feed which turned out to be an entrée of potato, herring, beetroot and sour cream which was sensational followed by boned chicken breast stuffed with mushrooms, a delectable sauce and a medley of vegetables followed by a simple dessert of coffee ice cream topped with chopped toffee and sauce. Just a simple lunch. Actually I forgot the complimentary Australian red and white wines. Sorry you weren't here to join us but we will raise glasses to absent friends.
We arrived in Bukhara to find our bus waiting for us (and those of you who remember Jim Anderson's story about the bus that followed their train in Ireland will laugh – ours has now been following us for three days) and drove to the Ark which was the fortified residence of the Emirs with the Registan Square next door for floggings and executions. Next stop was the Emir's prison which included a “bug pit” for the incarceration of prisoners until they died – no water or food. What a delightful era, almost in line with some countries today.
Then to inspect our next set of lodgings – marginally better although John says the shower attachment to the wall is broken which means we have to hold the shower. We don't have dinner in this Hotel so can't compare the quality – unlike China, Uzbekistan is still coming out of Russia's dark ages. Kazakhstan is very modern by comparison.
DAY 21 - FRIDAY – BUKHARA AND NIGHT TRAIN TO KHIVA
A bit of a well earned sleep-in. We needed it after last night although this time it was vodka, white and red wine and G & Ts. It was too late to finish Day 20 at about midnight and John found out he could get onto the internet in the Business Centre so sent what he could. Dr John's birthday was celebrated at a restaurant (as usual closed except for our group). We happened to be sitting with him when our erstwhile leader announced his birthday to the rest of the assembled troops and we all drank his health. Some great Uzbecki dancing and playing, a delicious birthday cake for desert and then back to the hotel for the Bailey's (best hotel in Bukhara does not have Bailey's hence the G & T).
Our first stop today was at a Mausoleum – Persian in style and, instead of the incredible tiles, the detail was in the brickwork – so simple it was beautiful and despite the tiles in previous mosques etc, one of my favourites Then on to the Bollo Khauz Mosque and Madressah (Islamic school) which is still active and the students were being taught in the huge courtyard. Also a fabulous minaret with bands of Arabic writing right up the tall spire until it reached a narrow blue band at the top. Most impressive. Then on an orientation tour off the markets – to be returned to later. Back to our hotel for our four hourly and then to the Emirs Summer Palace – a mini Versailles except that the ceiling to floor mirrors are divided up into small star shapes all over Opulence at its best. Then back to the markets – they are like a rabbit warren although the streets are fairly wide so all the things we saw on the orientation in the morning we couldn't find in the afternoon Just as well – our cases were full when we left and will definitely be over weight for the St Petersburg/Frankfurt flight. Back on the train for dinner and the night trip with Alexei waiting to bring us our coffee, the obligatory vodka, wines, three course dinner (salmon – pronounced with all the letters by the train staff) and a Baileys to finish off in the lounge car. By the way, we also have our resident pianist to entertain us in the polished wood, deep lounge chair and softly lit lounge car. NICE!
DAY 22 - SATURDAY – KIVA AND ANOTHER NIGHT ON THE TRAIN BEFORE ANOTHER NIGHT ON THE TRAIN
Bless the Uzbecki rail system – we arrived ¾ hour early – our bus (Jim Anderson again) had driven from Samarkand overnight and was waiting for us but the local guides were yet to arrive. And it was cold – the first time we have really had to rug up although we did for the Heavenly Lake in China and then had a glorious blue sky as we walked on the frozen lake.
Then off to the UNESCO protected old fortified town. Magnificent battlements, mud brick houses, arcades, shops, fantastic minarets one about 30m high but was intended to be 78m high so very thick at the base and covered in blue tiles. Mosques for the Emir and his family only and his harem with four houses on one side of the huge square courtyard and the other side for his concubines. No other man allowed inside the courtyard but the Emir and the eunuchs. Then morning tea in one of the houses (we were having a late lunch outside the four hourly feed limit) with mulberry and apricot jams that I would have given anything to have brought home – the best ever.
Believe it or not, it was time for shopping and as we were all feeling the cold, most people bought Russian hats – fashion parade tonight. A friend who did this trip another year remembered this from his tour and offered John his costume. There were some fantastic clothes on this trip and some of the velvet coats embroided all over with gold thread that have found their way on to the train-----!!!. Lunch next and this was held in the Emir's Summer Palace – chandeliers everywhere and beautiful walls and ceilings. Currently used for receptions to the town when dignitaries arrive or for weddings.
DAY 23 - SUNDAY – ON THE TRAIN BETWEEN KHIVA AND VOLGOGRADPassed through the Uzbek border control about 4:00, but all we heard was some talking and people walking past in the corridor. Then at about 7:00 we went through the Kazakh control. They walked through the train checking that everybody looked liked their passport photos. Jane had a disturbed sleep and was still in bed. The young immigration inspector was very embarrassed coming to check – he looked to be only about 18.
Very quiet day - Jane did not get up till about 12:00, missed all meals and slept most of the afternoon anyway. We had an interesting talk from Tatyana on changes in Russia during the last 20 years, and we had a trivia contest after lunch.
It rained for about half the day, but had cleared up by 17:00. We had to fill in our entry details for Russia as we will pass that border in the middle of the night. The bad news is that the Kazakh people will be through about 10:00 tonight to check us out, followed by the Russians about 1:30 in the morning – and they will probably wake us all to make sure we are who we are – ah well it is a relatively quiet day again tomorrow before our farewell to the train.
Jane continues – couldn't have chosen a better day to sleep – it was desert all the way with herds of wild horses and camels, some trying to race the train We got the blue skies around 4.00 and there was the most stunning desert sunset. You will get bombarded with emails on Tuesday as we are in the Marriott in Moscow with internet connection. Mobile connection through China was excellent but Kazakhstan etc seem to have been left a bit behind after the break-up of the Russian states – even the train lines are very rocky. China is set up all the way through for the very fast train. Volgograd (Stalingrad) tomorrow and then Moscow Tuesday
DAY 24 - MONDAY – VOLGOGRAD (EX STALINGRAD) AND THEN OVERNIGHT TRAIN TO MOCKBA
One incredible day – we arrived too late and left too early. Not that the train wasn't on time, it was just that we needed hours more to see everything. We approached across the mighty Volga with masses of ice and the largest hydro-electric station in Europe. And then the tour started Those of you who remember their history will know that Stalingrad (now Volgograd) was the turning point of the Nazi invasion - 50% of the citizens were killed, 1,000,000 soldiers died defending the city and the city was virtually razed. First, a tour of the city. 91,000 German POWs were kept to rebuild the city and the last did not leave until 1954 I think only about 10,000 actually returned to Germany. A lot of the buildings have been built in the Italianate style mimicking the previous architecture. And there is a single tree, the only tree left standing and the only green thing in the rubble the following spring – they have built the road around it Then on to the huge statue of Mother Russia, sword raised and pointing to the West indicating that was the way the Russian troops were to go to liberate the city. It is huge and stands on top of a hill. Below it on the next level is the circular War Memorial with the Eternal Flame, changing the guard takes place every hour. On the same level is a huge rock carving of a mother holding her dead son. Next level down is the Pool of Remembrance with statues along the sides commemorating various people in the War – a soldier helping his wounded comrade. A badly injured commander staying with his troops. We didn't have time to go to the lower levels down to the Volga commemorating the boatmen who ferried injured soldiers cross the River. We must return.
Back in to town to the flour mill - the only building left standing after 200 days of siege – and just a five story shell. Next to it is an amazing Museum of the War. There was a lot of silence among the group.
To a lighter time but sad in its own way, our final night on the train. Almost like a home away from home with people calling out familiarly as they approached the train “Igor, Igor, my coffee” and Igor with a grin on his face having it ready as they climbed up the steps.
DAY 25 – TUESDAY – MOCKBA
And so we say farewell-------
What a train and what a journey. But almost immediately, there it was - St Basil's Cathedral, Red Square and the Kremlin. No cars which means you can wander to get the best photo shot without being mown down. By the way, it was snowing here this morning and we approached Moscow through snowy fields and white forests. The cars are filthy from the windows down from dirty melting snow being splashed up and the car parking is horrendous – angle parking and then other cars park behind them with their hazard lights on while the owners duck into shops. And if you think Sydney traffic is appalling at peak hour, try Moscow. Beijing by comparison was fast moving one way streets.
Back to Red Square. All the photos you have seen of St Basil's are not touch-ups – it is genuinely beautiful. From there to the Gum Department Store on the side of Red Square and this had been prettied up inside for spring – blossom and fountains everywhere with the most fascinating huge handbags made out of clear plastic as display units for shoes and bags along the middle of the glass atrium style corridors. Once gain, Prue and Claire you must see it. From there to lunch – once again for our exclusive use in the base of a Museum. Then, an almost scary experience, a trip on the Metro. The stations are decorated but the trains take off after about a minute and this is to disgorge and engorge passengers. Another train comes one minute later and they move fast. Fortunately, we lost no-one. John's comment – they close the doors after the specified amount of time, regardless of passengers getting on or off, but as the next train is in sight as the current one leaves the station, it really doesn't matter if you don't get on.
From the Marriott where we are staying, we had two choices- only one really as the Bolshoi Ballet was not in its usual theatre, the ballet was Spartacus and the seas were $680 each OR a private viewing of St Basil's Cathedral. We chose the latter knowing it would finish up with a vodka and caviar and a local group playing and singing Russian music – all the old favourites such as Kalinka, the Volga Boatmen etc. Marvellous. Tonight we can choose any restaurant in the hotel naturally included in The Captain's Choice. And we thought we were spoilt on the train.
DAY 26 – WEDNESDAY - MOCKBA
They say you get what you pay for – we might be paying but, boy, are we getting. Ever had the Kremlin Museum opened an hour early so that you have total use until opening time at 10.00 when the hordes descend? The Captain's Choice has done it again. Woke to brilliant blue skies (The Captain's Choice?) and set off in the smartest bus so far (and they have all been good) and then got held up while endless government officials drove in (they clear the roads for them from about 45klms away). And then the costumes- wedding, coronation, court, clergy. The carriages – gifts, coronation, open, closed, sled, carried. On to the jewellery, the armoury, the gold and silver plate, the drinking vessels, even the Faberge eggs which of all the exhibition were probably the least noticeable. On the robes of one member of the clergy were 330,000 fresh water pearls. Yes, I mean 330,000. And on one of the icons were emeralds of 100 carats. I could go back and spend years.
From there we walked the Kremlin grounds – the Women's Cathedral and the Church of the Assumption which is the main Cathedral in the Kremlin complex. In one of the Cathedrals there was a group of singers singing a Cappella church music – magnificent. Past the huge broken bell and the cannon Boris Goudonov persuaded the son of Ivan the Terrible to install (the son was a peacemaker so not much good). Out of the Cathedral and a long drive along the river past Gorky Park which is more amusement than spy location these days and the New Cathedral built in he 90's when there was supposed to be no money. The University and the War Memorial built over one of the many stations we visited yesterday.
Had a late four hourly feed and then off to the Novodevichy Convent which is still being used by clergy and choir nuns so buildings were not open. Beautiful setting and funny watching the ducks walk on the frozen surface of the adjoining lake. Next door is the cemetery where the graves of Yeltsin, Gorbochov's wife, and many other well known ballerinas, army and political people, are buried. Very interesting. Back at the hotel, most of the group had a bit of a rest but not the Simpson's – a walk back to an underground shopping centre, the Gum shopping complex, performing monkeys dressed in jeans and leather jackets and a very snobby department store who thought we were cheap travellers and ignored us – if only they knew where we were staying, they would have maybe given us a second glance. I became an inverted snob myself for a few minutes.
Tonight was the farewell dinner – the end of the Beijing to Moscow segment. Sixteen of us go on to St Petersburg tomorrow and we have extra tours of Moscow tomorrow. We have just arrived back in our room to find a covered trolley, champagne on ice, glasses and fruit with a note from the management wishing John a Happy Birthday (as you probably know, John’s birthday is in August, so somehow they got it completely wrong). With the wine we have consumed at dinner, all we could do was stand and giggle!!! We'll drink the champers with the group on the fast train to St Petersburg.
DAY 27 - THURSDAY – MOSCOW AND THE FAST TRAIN TO ST PETERSBURG
Farewell to eight who leave at various times today while the remaining 16 and the Doc set off for a day's sightseeing. The Art Gallery turns out to be a wealthy merchants house who collected art and then donated it to the citizens of Moscow, now the Tretyakov Gallery. A huge portrait of John the Baptist baptising in the Jordan has Christ approaching from the mountains. Many miniatures of various sections of the paining were made and in the miniature, Christ has a dove above his head but not in he huge final painting. Painting of Princess Tarakanova is of a young woman standing on a bed with her head flung back and a terrified look on her face. Not the usual portrait of a Princess but if you look below, the water in her prison cell is rising and she knows her fate And the most unusual icon I have ever seen – Blessed are the Warriors of the Celestial King – the Church Militant made in 1550 and showing armies of men with a very small Christ in the middle
Next, time for our four hourly feed and I must admit the choices of restaurant have been excellent and usually quite unusual architecturally as well not to mention the name – this one Yolki Palki translated God Damn It. A final stop at St Basil's and Red Square (although three of us headed the other way to a white, timber roofed Palace of one of the early Romanovs and next to it a similar building which housed the first British embassy. Then through the ghastly Moscow traffic to join the fast train to St Petersburg and probably our best hotel yet, the Grand Hotel Europe - one of these days I am going to come back here as a wealthy multi, multi millionaire.
DAY 28 - FRIDAY – ST PETERSBURG
Let me tell you about the main dining room – breakfast was taken here (the old fashioned language is the only one to use). Like the inside of an old church except the stained glass was on the ceiling and instead of a communion table, there was a harpist playing throughout breakfast – get the picture?. It is supposed to be the oldest and best hotel here The main street, 5klms long, six lanes and two parking lanes wide and not a tall glass building to be seen – all the frontages of the homes of Royals or the wealthy – led us to the Winter Palace/Small Hermitage/Old Hermitage/New Hermitage. It is actually four buildings in one and we now know why there was a Revolution – the opulence is mind blowing - think off Versailles and they just keep adding rooms. And we hadn't even got as far as the art - Titian Boticelli, Raffaelo, Michelangelo, Da Vinci, Rembrandt, and then the French, Monet, Van Gogh, Matisse, Picasso, Renoir. The list just goes on and on. The silver and gold plate and the marble, lapis lazuli, malachite. John stood below one oval urn and could not even reach the bottom of it – the length was about twelve feet and it was about eight feet wide. Technically speaking, it was a free afternoon but no-one seemed to go back - we just spent our free time wandering around and around.
Did I tell you that per usual, the Captain's Choice had arranged for us to arrive before the hordes so we had the whole place to ourselves until we had almost completely circumnavigated it. We left about 3.00 because someone had told us that a visit to the Cathedral of the Spilt Blood was an essential. Four of us including the Doc did the walk and it was worth every step. St Basil's in Red Square, eat your heart out. All the walls, columns floor and ceiling are covered with the tiniest mosaics and it is a large Cathedral. Doc John said it was probably the best thing he has seen.
Italian dinner tonight at one of he Hotel's dining room – I have got to stop having four courses for lunch and then four courses for dinner – the plane won't get off the ground.
DAY 29 - SATURDAY – ST PETERSBURG, PUSHKIN (SUMMER PALACE)
Set off relatively early for a 45klms drive into the country to the Summer Palace – a slightly drizzly day with snow among the silver birches which made the whole place look like fairyland. The outside of the building is opulent to say the least with sky blue walls, white trims around the windows which are hugely ornately carved and gold decoration everywhere - looks a bit like the outside of Buckingham Palace in size but with all this fancy extra decoration around each huge window – absolutely unbelievable. Got the usual Captain's Choice welcome – a foursome in national costume playing Advance Australia Fair and then Waltzing Matilda. If we thought the winter Palace was opulent, you should have seen the Amber Room in the summer Palace The entire walls are amber, the picture frames are amber and every bit of decoration turned out to be amber too – chairs, tables, lamp bases.Off to a Russian restaurant at the edge of the woods and a copy of a sixteenth century wooden hunting lodge where we finally got on to Pammie for her birthday while a Russian group were playing traditional Russian songs – Volga Boatman, Kalinka, etc while eating fantastic Russian food. Wow!! Next back to St Petersburg for a tour of the city with frequent photo stops. We had a problem when we got back to the hotel – we still had stocks of wine which travels with us for our constant refreshment so there was nothing to do but meet in one of our groups rather large suite to finish it off prior to setting out on our final night's dinner – plus John's birthday bottle of champagne and a bottle of the ever present vodka. We were well primed before we ever left the hotel and even more so when we returned. Oh Dear!!!!!!!!
DAYS 30, 31, 32 - WHATEVER IT IS- PALM SUNDAY, MONDAY, TUESDAY – ST PETERSBURG, FRANKFURT, SINGAPORE, SYDNEY
Can't believe it is almost over, more like fairytale as the Simpson's just do not stay in these sorts of Hotels let alone have private bathrooms on trains, luxury buses and, thank goodness, Business Class on QANTAS where, unfortunately, this is being written.
Our day started with a visit to the Church of St Nicholas – the Naval Church. Being Palm Sunday (Orthodox Church is one week behind us this year) it was packed but the singing was glorious and, as there are no palms in St Petersburg (except for the luxury hotels such as ours in the atrium along with little black angora rabbits for Easter) the locals bring branches of pussy willow to church. Having listened to part of the service, we headed off to the Palace of the Yousepov's – the Palace where Rasputin was finally killed. Why Alexandra did not kill off all the Yousepovs for getting rid of her favourite, I could not find out. But they received only minor punishments and then cleared out just days before the Revolution – talk about saving their skin twice. A superb private palace with one room entirely done out in oak – including the chandelier. Then, because we were getting hungry and it was time for our four hourly feed, we headed back to the Hotel for lunch and exiting our rooms.
Lunch over, it was time to go back to the Cathedral of the Spilt Blood – not normally on the tour agenda but because yours truly discovered it and the Doc raved, everybody else wanted to see it. So we wandered around looking at the incredible painted panels on the outside before we all headed off to the Peter and Paul Fortress where all the Romanovs are buried in the Cathedral including Nicholas and Alexandra whose remains were found in 1998 and confirmed by American and British DNA testing. Believe it or not they have now been canonised as murdered innocents. A tour of the fortress and then back to see the battleship Aurora from where the first shots of the Revolution were fired and finally to the airport. CHAOS. The delays were horrendous unlike the efficient Germans at Frankfurt. They took half an hour to find out where Brisbane was – if we had known John could have told them to look up the international code of BNE. Frankfurt might be efficient but its airport is a nightmare to negotiate until we finally made it onto Aussie soil and upstairs on a jumbo with flat beds and fillet steak. Eat your hearts out because we have over the last five weeks or so. Thanks Captain’s Choice and Good Night.
